Gezi Yazısı: Orta Doğu’nun Kültür Madeni İran: Tebriz ve Tahran
Üç semâvî dinin kalbi Orta Doğu’nun, hem kültürel hem de jeopolitik anlamda merkezlerinden birisi olan, medeniyetler beşiği ve köprüsü sıfatlarına haiz İran, öteden beri hem hakiki seyyahların hem de yola âşık nice efradın uğrak yeri olmuştur. Biz de üç arkadaş, seyyahlığa soyunarak, kadim Acem diyarını keşif yoluna düştük. Günümüzde; güncel siyasi olaylar, dinî çekişmeler, ulusal ve uluslararası medyanın birtakım cambazlıkları sebebiyle uzun yıllardan beri adı pek hoş anılmayan İran’ın üstünü adeta bir toz bulutu kaplamış durumda. Dışarıdan bakıldığında bu toz bulutu ülkenin içerisindeki doğal güzellikleri, kültürel canlılığı ve beşerî zenginliği de örter vaziyette. Hâliyle İran dendiğinde akla ilk gelen manzara ve oluşan algı pek müspet sayılmaz. Fakat İran, siyasi konjonktürü bir kenara bıraktığımızda, bu negatif algıyı yıkabilecek potansiyele zannımca fazlasıyla sahip. Bu yazıda, İran seyahatim sırasında yaptığım naçizane gözlemlerimi ve edindiğim tecrübeleri okuyucuyu tarihî malumata boğmadan kısaca aktarmaya ve mezkûr potansiyeli gün yüzüne çıkarmaya çalışacağım.
Yüz ölçümü açısından Türkiye’nin yaklaşık iki buçuk katı olan İran’a varmak için üç seçenekten birisi ve bizce en heyecanlısı olan kara yolunu tercih ettik. İran ile kara yolu bağlantısına sahip dört tane şehrimiz bulunuyor: Ağrı, Van, Hakkari ve Iğdır. Bunlar arasında en yaygın kullanılanı ise Van’da bulunan Kapıköy sınır kapısı. Biz de bu kapıya ulaşmak amacıyla İstanbul’dan uçakla gittiğimiz Van’da bir gün misafir olup, hâlihazırda gelmişken tarihî şehrin kalesini, Edremit’in seyir tepesini, yapımından asırlar geçmiş birkaç eski camiyi ziyaret ettik. Esasen İran seyahatine başlamadan önce, her ne kadar siyasi sınırlar itibarıyla birbirlerinden ayrılsalar da, ülkemizin Doğu şehirlerinden başlayarak İran’a varmak coğrafyanın bütünlüğünü kavramak açısından faydalı olacaktır. Direkt olarak İran kültürünün içerisine kendinizi atmaktan ziyade bölgeler arası kültürel geçişi de gözlemlemek hiç şüphesiz ki farklı bir bakış açısı sunacaktır.
Van’ın merkezindeki birçok turizm şirketi sınır kapısına ve dahi direkt olarak Tebriz ve Urmiye gibi İran şehirlerine seferler düzenliyor. Bu seferler çift taraflı olarak, özellikle yaz aylarında yoğun bir şekilde gerçekleşiyor. Bahar ve yaz aylarında İranlılar âdeta Türkiye’ye akın ediyor. Bu yoğun hareketlilik Van’ın şehir merkezinde de çok rahat bir şekilde fark edilebiliyor.
Hülasa, biz de bahsettiğim şirketlerden bir tanesi ile Kapıkule sınır kapısına ulaşarak ülkemizden ayrıldık ve İran’ın Râzi sınır kapısından da geçerek İran topraklarına ilk adımımızı atmış olduk. Vakit kaybetmeyerek sınır kapısının hemen önünde bulunan taksiler aracılığıyla en yakın şehir konumundaki Hoy’a doğru yola çıktık. Niyetimiz Hoy şehrinden İran Azerilerinin merkezi ve Doğu Azerbaycan Eyaletinin başkenti olan Tebriz şehrine geçmekti. Yaklaşık bir saatlik taksi yolculuğu sonrasında İran’daki ilk durağımız olan Hoy’a ulaştık.
Burası ilk bakışta ufak, sakin ve sıradan bir İran şehri gibi gözüküyor fakat tarihi geçmişi İslamiyet öncesi dönemlere kadar gitmekte olan kadîm bir şehirdir. 1514 yılında Yavuz Sultan Selim Han’ın gerçekleştirdiği İran Seferi’nin ana muharebelerinden birisi olan Çaldıran Savaşı da Hoy şehrinin kuzeydoğusunda kalan Çaldıran Ovası’nda gerçekleşmiştir. Hoy’daki şaşırdığım durumlardan bir tanesi Şems-i Tebrîzî’nin burada bir türbesinin bulunması. Malum, ülkemizde de Konya’da Şems-i Tebrîzî’ye ait olduğuna inanılan bir türbe bulunmakta. Fakat Batı Azerbaycan Kültürel Mirasları Koruma Kurumu diğer türbeleri reddediyor ve tarihî belgeler ile sabit olduğunu da iddia ederek esas türbenin Hoy’da bulunduğunu ifade ediyor. Elbette bizim gönlümüz Konya’dan yana :).
Hoy şehrinde çok vaktimizi harcamadan otogardan biletlerimizi alıp Tebriz’e doğru yola çıktık. Bu yolculuk İran’daki şehirler arası ulaşım noktasında ilk deneyimimizdi. Otobüs ve trenler pek lüks ve modern olmasalar da kesinlikle konfor konusunda bizden geçer notu aldılar. Otobüs koltukları ülkemize göre daha geniş ve diğer koltuklar ile olan mesafe ciddi derecede daha fazlaydı. Üç saat sonra ulaştığımız Tebriz için heyecanlıydık. Geçmişi milattan önce altı binlere kadar uzanan; Sâsâniler, Emeviler, Abbasiler, Hazar Türkleri, Selçuklular, Moğollar, Safeviler ve Osmanlılar gibi nice büyük devletin ve imparatorluğun hâkim olduğu; Ebû Ca‘fer el-Mansûr, Hârûnürreşîd, Tuğrul Bey, Celâleddin Hârizmşah, Hülagu Han ve Hz. Ömer komutasındaki Mugīre b. Şu‘be gibi de nice haşmetli komutanın ayak bastığı; “Tebrîzî” nisbesiyle nice büyük âlimin yetiştiği; Marco Polo, İbnü’l-Esîr, Evliya Çelebi gibi seyyahların ziyaretgâhı olan bir diyardan bahsediyoruz. Heyecanlanmamak elbette ki elde değildi. Nitekim buralara geliş amacımız sözünü ettiğim toz bulutunun altındaki bu cevherleri hissetmekti.
Açıkçası Tebriz’de çok fazla yabancılık çekmedik. Bunun en büyük sebebi hâlen Türkçe ile rahat bir şekilde iletişim kurabiliyor olmamız ve halkın misafirperverliğiydi diye düşünüyorum. Gerek bindiğimiz taksilerdeki hoş sohbetler gerekse esnafın ve halkın bize karşı sıcak ve samimi ilgisi kendimizi yabancı hissetmememize ve de ülkeye daha kolay adapte olmamıza yardımcı oldu. Türk olduğumuzu duyan insanlar -özellikle taksiciler bizim ile Türk dizilerini, ülkemizdeki siyasi olayları, ekonomik koşulları, Erdoğan hakkındaki düşüncelerimizi ve genel olarak Türkiye ile alakalı mevzuları konuşmak istiyorlar ve aramızda samimi sohbetler gerçekleşiyordu. Birçok işimizi de yine halkın yardımı ve yol göstermesiyle hallettik. Bunlardan bir tanesi de döviz bozdurma meselesi.
İran’da her ne kadar döviz büroları bulunsa da -ki bunların sayısı çok fazla değil para bozdurma işlemleri sokaklarda, özellikle belirli cadde ve köşelerde, ellerinde çanta ile bekleyen veyahut direkt olarak para tomarlarıyla gezen kişiler, yani bir nevi “ayaklı dövizciler” aracılığı ile gerçekleşiyor. Hiç âşina olmadığımız bu durum ilk başta güvenilir gelmedi elbette. Bize elinde deste deste parayla gezen her dövizci bir dolandırıcı gibi gözüküyordu. Ne söyledikleri kur fiyatlarına ne de verdikleri paralara güvenebiliyorduk. Pazarlık yapmaya çalıştığımız anda fiyatlarda yaptıkları oynama ve tahfifler bizi iyice işkillendiriyordu. O anda kurun neye tekabül ettiği konusunda söylediklerine de pek güvenemiyorduk ki zaten hâlihazırda Türkiye’deki resmi rakamlardan çok aşağı teklifler sunuyorlardı. Dahası resmiyette İran Riyali olarak geçen para birimi halk içerisinde tümene ya da toman olarak isimlendirdikleri bir birime dönüşmüştü. Riyaldeki sıfırları atarak tümen olarak isimlendiriyorlar ve tabiri caizse riyalin esamesi dahi okunmuyordu. Gelmeden önce bu durumdan haberdardık elbette fakat iş pratiğe gelince ilk adımda biraz tökezledik denilebilir. İran ekonomisine alışmamız biraz zaman alacaktı. Öyle ya da böyle paramızı bozdurup bir süreliğine, dolandırıcı görünümlü dövizci abiler ile olan münasebetimize ara verdik ve gezimize devam ettik.
Para meselesini de hallettikten sonra gelelim her şeyden önce bir ticaret merkezi olmasıyla bilinen Tebriz’e. Bu kadim şehir, özellikle İpek ve Baharat Yolu üzerinde bulunması hasebiyle asırlar boyu kervansarayların uğrak noktalarından birisi olarak önemini sürdürmüş. Günümüzde de bu ticari işlevini kapalı çarşısı ile kısmen devam ettiriyor. Burası tüm kollarıyla toplam 7 kilometre uzunluğunda, 24 kervansaraya sahip olan ve dünyanın en büyük kapalı çarşısı unvanıyla da UNESCO tarafından Dünya Miras Listesi’ne dâhil edilmiş bir ticari mekân. Pazarın içerisine girdiğiniz anda o ticari hareketliliği hissediyorsunuz. Büyüklüğüyle de adeta üstü kapalı bir mahalle izlenimi veriyor. Dört bir yana giden insan selinin içerisinde, mekânın da yabancısı olarak nereye gideceğimizi bilmez bir vaziyette rastgele sokaklarını dolanmaya başladık. Pazar, ülkemizdeki pazarlarda da olduğu gibi, ürünlere göre bölge bölge ayrılmış. Ancak her ne kadar hareketlilik fazla olsa da halkın alım gücünün zayıf olduğunun altını çizmek lazım. Özellikle pandemi ve onu takip eden süreçte enflasyon ciddi oranda artmış durumda. Uzun lafın kısası, duyumlar doğru: halk için petrol haricinde her şey pahalı.
Ertesi günün Cuma olması dolayısıyla farklı bir gün bizleri bekliyordu. İran’da, Şiiler içerisinde bir cuma namazı kılma tecrübesi merak uyandıran bir düşünceydi. Ülkenin genelinde Türkiye ile kıyaslayınca ilk başta şöyle bir farklılık mevcut: Cuma namazları her camide kılınmıyor. Her şehirde “Musallâ Câmii” olarak isimlendirilen ve sadece cuma namazları için kullanılan bir cami bulunuyor. Tebriz’in de şehir merkezinde gayet büyük fakat içi konferans salonunu andıran bir cami mevcut. Mezkûr camiye cuma vaktinden epey evvel gittik fakat içeriye çantamız ile giremeyeceğimizi, eşyalarımızı emanete bırakmamız gerektiğini söylediler. Meğer tüm büyük camilerde ücretsiz bir emanet odası varmış. İşimize geldi, koşar adım gidip çantalarımızdan kurtulduk ve hatta çantaları camide bırakarak cuma vaktine kadar gezinmek için dışarıya çıktık. Cuma günü resmi tatil olduğu için sokaklar da epey canlıydı. Şehir içerisinde bulunan küçüklü büyüklü muhtelif camilere uğradık. Açıkçası şehirde gezilip görülecek çok fazla bir yer yok. Görülmesi gereken mekânlar konusunda kapalı çarşı haricinde, yine çarşıya bağlı bir yapı olduğu düşünülen ve bir Büyük Selçuklu eseri olan Tebriz Cuma Mescidi’ni ve inşâsına Karakoyunlu Cihan Şah döneminde başlansa da ölümü dolayısıyla Akkoyunlular tarafından tamamlanan Gök Mescit’i zikretmek istiyorum. Kanaatimce Tebriz’in başlıca görülmesi gereken üç mekânı bunlardır.
Cuma namazında gözlemlediklerim ile alakalı olarak itikadi meselelere ve mezhepsel münakaşalara girmeden sadece gördüklerimi aktarmakla yetineceğim. İlk olarak, camiye girdiğinizde alışık olduğunuz cami tasarımından uzak bir mekana girdiğinizi fark ediyorsunuz. İnce, uzun ve bir konferans salonunu andıran caminin kıble duvarının sağında ve solunda başta devrim lideri Ayetullah Humeyni ve mevcut dini önder Ayetullah Hamaney olmak üzere farklı siyasi şahsiyetlerin fotoğrafları mevcut. Mihrabın hemen üstünde de bir kürsü bulunuyor. Namaza birkaç saat kala başlayan konuşmalar da bu kürsüye çıkan muhtelif kişiler tarafından yapılıyor.
Kürsüye çıkanların neredeyse tamamı siyasi meseleleri ihtiva eden konuşmalar yaptılar. Amerika, İsrail, Ermenistan ve Türkiye’ye dair çeşitli söylemlerde bulundular. En ön saflarda askerî üniformalı, kalabalık denilebilecek bir grup yapılan konuşmaları hararetli bir şekilde dinleyerek zaman zaman coşkulu tezahüratlarda bulunuyorlardı. Namaz konusunda da malum, farklılıklar mevcut. Dışarıdan bakıldığında göze ilk çarpan fark Şiilerin alınlarını “Kerbela Taşı” olarak isimlendirilen küçük taşlara alınlarını dayayarak secde etmesi ve namaz sırasında ellerini bağlamaması olsa gerek. Yine namaz içerisindeki muhtelif fiillerde de farklarımız var fakat ben devamını sizin merakınıza ve araştırmanıza tevdi ederek bu kadarını aktarmayı kâfi görüyorum.
Tebriz’de bulunan İmam Humeyni Caddesi şehri doğu ve batı olarak ikiye bölen bir şerit işlevi görür. Bu caddenin bir ucunda Tahran’a giden ana yol yer alırken diğer ucunda şehrin tren garı bulunur. Biz de Cuma namazının ardından şehirden ayrılmak üzere tren garına doğru yola çıktık. Hedefimiz ülkenin başkenti ve metropolü olan Tahran’a varmaktı.
Tebriz-Tahran arasında ray hattının bulunmasından dolayı tren ile gitmeyi tercih ettik. Önümüzde yaklaşık on üç saatlik bir tren yolculuğu vardı. Trendeki konfor düzeyi kanaatimce otobüsten çok daha iyi. Dört kişilik yataklı odalarda, çay ve yemek servisi imkânıyla birlikte otobüsten de ucuza bir yolculuk fırsatı sunuyor. Ayrıca ülkemizde alışık olmadığımız diğer bir durum ise trenlerin namaz saatlerinde mola veriyor olması. Şiilerin üç vakit camiye gitmelerinden dolayı tren de üç namaz vaktine uygun olarak çeşitli istasyonlarda namaz arası veriyor. Bu ara istasyonlar bizde olduğu gibi market, hediyelik eşya, yemek alanlarından ziyade yalnızca mescit ve tuvalet içeriyor. Neredeyse sadece namaz kılmaya münasip bir şekilde inşa edilmiş.
Geceyi trende geçirdikten sonra, on üç saatin ardından başkente vardık. Başşehir Tahran, İran halkının yaklaşık %15’inin yaşadığı, takriben 10 milyon insanın bulunduğu büyük bir şehir. Aslında Tahran, eski başkent Rey’in yakınında ufak bir kasabaydı. 13. yüzyılda Moğolların Rey şehrini yağmalaması sonucu halk bugünkü Tahran’ın bulunduğu bölgeye taşınarak buranın hem ekonomik hem de kültürel gelişimini sağladı. Ayrıca şehir, 18. yüzyılda Kaçar Hanedanlığı’nın başkenti haline geldikten sonra da ciddi bir nüfus artışı yaşadı ve zaman içerisinde günümüzdeki seviyesine ulaştı. Nitekim şehre iner inmez ilk göze çarpan durum da bu kalabalık insan popülasyonu oluyor. Bu izdihama bir de korkunç seviyedeki araba ve motosiklet kalabalığı eklenince şehir insanı iyice bunaltıyor. Her yerde inanılmaz bir keşmekeş mevcut. Trafik kurallarından da söz etmek mümkün değil. İstanbul’da benzer manzaralara az çok alışığız diyerek çok şaşırmayacağımızı düşünmüştüm fakat durum çok daha vahim. Özellikle motosiklet kalabalığı insanı hayrete düşürüyor. Kaldırımlardaki motor sayısını görünce insan bir motosiklet pazarının ortasındaymış hissine kapılıyor.
Taşıt kalabalığına dair resmi kaynaklara baktığımızda, Tahran Belediyesi Çevre ve Sürdürülebilir Gelişim Ofisi’nin verilerine göre Tahran’ın kaldırabileceği taşıt sayısı 700 bin civarıyken bu rakam şu an 5 milyona ulaşmış durumda. Son olarak bir acı gerçek, Unicef’in söylediğine göre İran’da trafik kazaları sonucunda her sene 28 bin insan hayatını kaybediyormuş. Bu sayı, 2021 yılında TÜİK tarafından açıklanan verilere göre ülkemizde 5 bin civarındadır. Dolayısıyla taşıt yoğunluğunu ve trafiğin korkunç ahvâlini resmî veriler gayet net bir şekilde açıklamaktadır.
Tahran bizi her anlamda yormaya başlamıştı bile. Birçok kişinin İran’ın güzelliklerini görmek istiyorsanız Tahran’da çok vaktinizi harcamayın tavsiyesini şu an daha iyi anlayabiliyorduk. Ancak elbette Tahran’ın İran’ı tanımak noktasında önemli bir uğrak yeri olduğunu da biliyorduk. Niyetimiz birkaç gün burada kalmak ve sonrasında medreseler başkenti Kum şehrine doğru yol almaktı. İlk durağımız Malek Ulusal Müzesi ve Kütüphanesi oldu. Burası İran’ın ilk özel müzesi unvanını taşıyan, içerisinde enfes el yazma eserler ve nispeten geniş bir para koleksiyonu barındıran bir müze. Zengin tâcir Hacı Hüseyin Ağa Malek’in hususi girişimleri ile kurulmuş. Malek, İran tarihinin son iki asrında etkin olan bir tüccar ailenin vârisi olarak özellikle memleketi Tahran’a muhtelif hizmetlerde bulunmuş. Kanaatimce en büyük hizmeti de sözünü ettiğim milli kütüphane ve müzedir. Ayrıca İran’da camilere dahi parayla girmemize rağmen bu güzel müzeyi ücretsiz bir şekilde ziyaret edebilmek bizi oldukça memnun etti. Özellikle, günümüzde dahi hâlâ okunan kült eserlerin nadir bulunan orijinal nüshalarını; Hülagu Han, Tuğrul Bey, Şahruh, Timur, Uzun Hasan, Sultan Alparslan ve daha birçok hükümdarın döneminde basılan sikkeleri; âdeta bir ressam edasıyla dokunan muntazam İran halılarını görmek için bu müzeye uğramanızı tavsiye ederim.
Müzenin ardından şehir merkezinde bulunan İmam Humeyni Camii’ni ziyaret ettik. Kot farkından dolayı yol hizasından biraz aşağıda olan camiye merdiven ile iniliyor. Caminin ana meydanından önce sizi yeşil, ferah ve havuzlu ufak bir avlu karşılıyor. Bu avlu dahi dışarıdaki hengâmeye nazaran bir cennet mesabesinde. Caminin ana meydanı ise yine havuzlu ve genişçe bir avlu. Klasik İran mimarisinin ana özelliklerini taşıyan cami esasen Kaçar Hanedanlığı döneminde inşa edilmiş. Sultan veyahut Şah Cami olan orijinal adı 1979 İslam Devrimi’nden sonra Humeyni Cami (İmam Cami de deniliyor) olarak değiştirilmiş.
Caminin ardından Tahran’ın, hatta İran’ın sembollerinden Âzâdî (Özgürlük) Meydanı ve kulesine gitmek üzere metroya bindik. Gişelerden tek binişlik biletler alarak metroyu kullanabiliyorsunuz. Tahran’da genel olarak her şeyin pahalı olmasından dolayı toplu taşıma kullanmak daha mantıklı. Tebriz’e nazaran yemek ve taksi fiyatları ciddi derecede pahalı. Metro ağları da şehir içi ulaşım için gayet yeterli olunca bu yol en mantıklı seçenek haline geliyor. Metro istasyonları gayet modern ve düzenli. İstanbul’daki metrolardan aşağı kalır bir yanı yok. Fakat şöyle bir fark var ki: Kadınlar ve erkeklerin metroya biniş yerleri, metro istasyonunda kadınların bekleme alanları ve metro içerisinde yolculuk ettikleri bölümler farklı. Ancak kadın ve erkekler tamamen birbirlerinden ayrı bir şekilde yolculuk etmiyorlar. Birlikte yolculuk edebildikleri alanlar da var. Azâdî Meydanı fiziki olarak bomboş görünen bir meydan izlenimi verse de sembolik açıdan İran için önemli bir mekândır. Meydanın ortasında, meydan ile aynı isme sahip bir kule bulunmaktadır. Sembol, meydandan ziyade bu kuledir. 1971 yılında, Pers İmparatorluğu’nun 2500. senesine binaen inşa edilen kule, zaman içerisinde İran halkının en değer verdiği yapılardan biri haline gelmiştir. Meydan, ülkede gerçekleşen birçok toplumsal/siyasi olaya da sahne olmuştur ve halen olmaktadır. Örneğin Rıza Şah Pehlevi zamanında yönetime karşı vuku bulan ayaklanmalar ve keza günümüzde de devrim iktidarına karşı yapılan eylemler burada gerçekleşir. Aslında meydanın ve kulenin adı Şahyâd (Shahyaad) idi. Fakat devrimden sonra eski rejime dair herhangi bir ibârenin, özellikle şah gibi bir kelimenin kullanılması mümkün değildi. Neticede, yeni rejim ile beraber yeni bir isim geldi: zâdî.
Tahran’daki bu ilk günümüzde bir İranlı tanıdığımızın evinde misafir olacağımız için hava çok fazla kararmadan eve gitme kararı aldık. İran seyahatimizde bize birçok kapı açan Couchsurfing uygulaması üzerinden bulduğumuz ev sahibi bizim ile gayet güzel ilgilendi. Beraber Tahran’ın sokak lezzetlerini tatma, gece hayatını ve sosyal sınıf farkını gözlemleme fırsatımız oldu. Babası Şii bir molla olan genç ev sahibimiz Maaz, hem dinî hem de siyasi baskılardan bunalmış tipik fakat kısmen entelektüel bir İran genciydi. Kendisiyle dinler, Şia, Ali Şeriati, Firdevsî, Hafız-ı Şirâzî, Sâdî, Mevlânâ ve İran müziği hakkında uzunca sohbetler ettik. Gece de motosiklet ile birlikte bir Tahran turu yaptık. Ayetullah Hamaney’in oturduğu evi, şehrin merkezinde bulunan eşcinsel parkını, İstanbul’daki Çamlıca’yı andıran ve dünyanın en uzun 4. gökdeleni olan Milad Kulesi’ni, Orta Doğu’nun en uzun üçüncü tüneli olan Tohid Tüneli’ni görme ve içerisinden geçme şansımız oldu. Eşcinsel parkı deyince garip gelebilir fakat Tahran’ın göbeğinde, eşcinsellerin kol gezdiği ve her anlamda rahatça hareket ettikleri bir park mevcut. Anlaşılan o ki -sözde- İslam Cumhuriyeti’nin başkenti Tahran diğer şehirlere nazaran açık ara daha seküler ve “özgür”.
İkinci gün niyetimiz, Tahran’a geliş sebeplerimizden birisi olan Gülistan Sarayı’nı ziyaret etmekti. Burası Tahran’ın en eski tarihi yapısı unvanını taşıyan; UNESCO Dünya Miras Listesi’nde yer alan; mimarisiyle, süslemeleriyle, havuzlu ve rengârenk bahçesiyle ziyaretçilerini kendisine hayran bırakan; içerisinde barındırdığı eserleriyle de ülke tarihi açısından önem arz eden kıymetli bir yer. Pers kültürü ile Batı mimarisinin bileşiminden meydana gelen ve “Doğu’nun Versay Sarayı” ismiyle anılan bu yapı Tahran’da görülmesi gereken başlıca eserlerden.
Müze ve saray ile alakalı ayrıntılara geçmeden önce şunu ifade etmeliyim ki giriş fiyatları oldukça pahalı. Özellikle İran’ın diğer müzeleri ile kıyaslandığında Gülistan Sarayı epey tuzlu geldi bize. Fiyatlar İranlılar için elbette ki daha ucuzdu ancak biz yabancıydık. Fakat neden İranlı numarası yapmayalım ki dedik ve bizi misafir eden İranlı Maaz abinin peşine takıldık, ağzımızı açmayacak ve göz teması kurmayacaktık. Böyle şeylerde foyayı ortaya çıkarma ihtimali en yüksek kişi sanırım bendim ve o sebeple en arkada yerimi aldım. Ancak görevli ilk görüşte anladı ve bir arkadaşımın Polonyalı, benim ise Özbek olduğumu söyledi. Dahası, Kürt olan arkadaşımıza da bu Kürt değil dedi :). Hülasa, planlar suya düştü. Artık giremeyiz, boş verelim derken görevli bir kıyak geçip neyse buyurun deyiverdi ve kendimizi Gülistan’ın şahane bahçesinde bulduk.
Gelelim saraya, içeriye girdiğiniz andan itibaren sizi rengârenk ve cıvıl cıvıl bir atmosfer karşılıyor. Nitekim sarayın adının da gülistan olması bir tesadüf değil. Safeviler Dönemi içerisinde inşasına başlanılan saray daha sonrasında Kaçarlar Döneminde büyük bir değişim, tamirat ve yenilenme süreçlerinden geçmiş. Bugün de daha çok Kaçar Hanedanlığı’nın sarayı sıfatıyla anılmaktadır. Aslında ilk olarak kerpiçten bir kale şeklinde inşa edilmiş ancak ilerleyen zamanlarda hem hâkim güçlerin hem de mimari zevklerin değişmesiyle saray da kendisini yenileyerek günümüzdeki hâlini almıştır. Saray, büyük değişim süreçleri ve hükümranlık mücadeleleri geçirse de bünyesinde her birinin izini taşımaktadır. Örneğin; saray duvarları genel olarak turkuaz, sarı, siyah ve beyaz renklerinden oluşuyor. Safeviler Döneminin ana renklerinden birisi olan turkuaz ile Kaçar Hanedanlığı imzasını taşıyan siyah ve sarı renkleri bir araya gelerek ortak kültürü yansıtan bir yapı oluşturmuşlar.
Tahran’da daha fazla kalmaya niyetimiz yoktu. Bir an önce mollalar ve medreseler şehri Kum’a doğru yola çıkmak istiyorduk. Dolayısıyla Gülistan Sarayı ziyaretinin ardından İslam Cumhuriyeti’nin başkenti Tahran’dan Şii mollaların başkenti Kum’a gitmek üzere hareket ettik…
(Kum ve Kâşân’ı anlattığım ikinci yazıda görüşmek üzere 👋)
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